Despite several competitors and judges not having arrived in Lyon until very late on Tuesday 9th, their stamina was tested from early the following morning with a 9am coach departure.

First on the schedule was a guided visit of the cellars of Guigal (formally Établissements Guigal) in Ampuis. Operations Director Jacques Devernois led the group through old and new parts of the extensive under and above ground facilities from the computer controlled grape reception area, through the maturation in tanks and casks and on to the bottling line with robotic arms mesmerising everyone with their speed.

In the dedicated tasting area in the cellar we were in awe at the quality and large selection of Guigal wines presented by Jacques, all the while admiring the forklift truck drivers who whizzed about with amazing skill!

Guigal produces wine from appellations across the Rhône region, but is particularly noted for their Côte-Rôtie wines having played a key role in improving Côte-Rôtie's international reputation. Guigal acts as a négociant working with long-standing producers, but it is for the wines from their own vineyards, especially the single vineyard ones (namely La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque) that their international reputation was developed.

Most generously, Jacques took the group through much of the Guigal range from a “humble” yet deliciously-made white Côtes du Rhône up to the famous Côte Rôtie and Hermitage wines.

Thank you very much Jacques for your generosity and imparted knowledge. The young Sommelier competitors, judges too, were seen taking copious notes.

Leaving Ampuis behind … and in doing so gasping at the steepness of the terraced vineyards … the coach took the group to Tain l’Hermitage for a tasting lunch in Vineum, the wine shop and restaurant of Paul Jaboulet Aîné.

The legendary name of Paul Jaboulet Aîné was built on foundations laid by Antoine Jaboulet in 1834. Having founded a small estate and cellars in Tain with vines across the famous hill of Hermitage, expansion soon followed with the acquisition of vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage and eventually further afield. Nevertheless, the iconic Hermitage La Chapelle, unarguably one of the greatest wines in France, remains their masterpiece.

At the beginning of 2006 the company was acquired by Jean-Jacques Frey. His daughter Caroline, a fully qualified oenologist, has responsibility for the running of all three of the Frey family’s wholly-owned properties - Jaboulet, La Lagune in Bordeaux and now Château de Corton André in Burgundy.

Laetitia Terry, Brand Manager and Vineum Manager, led the masterclass tasting during a lunch of fresh and smoked salmon rillette followed by very tender braised beef and ending with fresh almond pear pie.

Eminently knowledgeable and clearly enthusiastic for the wines she promotes, Laetitia led the group through a wide selection of whites and reds from the Jaboulet stable.

Justifiably, she and her service team were thanked profusely for a truly memorable occasion.

There was time before the coach departed for “home” for some intrepid members of the group to climb the steep slope to reach the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, from which the famous vineyard of Hermitage La Chapelle gets its name.

Having returned to Lyon there was an hour or so to freshen up before heading to the first of two Beaujolais/Maconnais-inspired masterclass tasting dinners.

The famous “Le Bistrot de Lyon” was the location. Romain Teyteau, the Georges Dubœuf Export Director with responsibility for the North American market, was the tutor.

Romain had an engaging style. Littered with anecdotes he took the group through the history of Les Vins Georges Duboeuf, one of the largest wine merchants in France. Founded in 1964, the company is known especially for its Beaujolais wines, leading to Dubœuf being nicknamed “le roi du Beaujolais” or sometimes “pape du Beaujolais” (respectively the “King” or “Pope” of Beaujolais).

A Crémant de Bourgogne aperitif freshened the palate, St Véran, Morgon, Brouilly, Fleurie and a 2015 Moulin à Vent finale complemented the outstanding Lyon bistrot style food. Namely, foie gras “Mère Brazier” style, Bresse chicken fricassee, Saint Marcellin and Cervelle des canuts cheeses, concluding with a trilogy dessert.

What an outstanding evening it was! However given the Semi-final of the Competition was due to start early the following morning the competitors and judges were permitted to leave early.

Sommeliers Committee Member Philip Evins led the effusive praise for Romain and for Le Bistrot de Lyon.

After the Semi-final had taken place all day on the Thursday, in the evening it was to the Restaurant les Adrets that the group adjourned for a masterclass tasting dinner led by Cyril Chirouze, General Manager and Winemaker of Chateau des Jacques. The estate which since 1996 has been owned by Maison Louis Jadot produces Crus Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon and Fleurie, as well as the white Burgundy, Clos de Loyse.

Cyril introduced a number of the Chateau's wines which the group had the distinct pleasure of tasting before the dinner. These included a Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent 2018; Morgon ‘Côte du Py’ 2017, Moulin-a-Vent ‘Clos de Rochegrès’ 2017 and Moulin-a-Vent ‘Clos du Grand Carquelin’ across three vintages: 2017, 2014 and 2009.

Different wines were selected to accompany the four course dinner that followed with the oldest vintage dating back to 1999.

As well as benefiting from listening to Cyril’s impressive analysis of the different wines and vintages of Chateau des Jacques those present also were treated to the irrepressible charms of George dos Santos of Antic Wines who very generously added to the official wines on offer enabling those present to engage in some additional, non-competitive, blind tasting of some delicious vinous delights!

The meal itself was traditional Lyonnaise fare with a particular highlight being the pâté en croûte which had been filled with a myriad of items before being cooked for many hours before being happily enjoyed by those assembled.

Merci beaucoup George, Cyril and Les Adrets!

[Ed. with thanks to Leslie Cuthbert, Échanson of Great Britain, for this resume of the Thursday evening dinner.]

Last but not least with the appreciation, a big THANK YOU is due to Jeunes Sommeliers Committee Member, Philip Evins, for having arranged the tour and the two dinners.

Marie Jones
International Vice-President
Chair of the International Jeunes Sommeliers Competition Committee

Photographs courtesy of E. Guigal S.A.S; Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné; Christina Suominen (Échanson, Finland); Dominique Crombé (Échanson, Belgium); Dirk Sabbé; Andrew Jarrowson; Pilar Roth (Chargée de Missions, Mexico)