Budapest’s Hill of Roses guards the Vadrozsa (Wild Rose) Restaurant. The baroque villa’s first owner nicknamed “Blonde Beard” was the head waiter in the film Casablanca.

For over 40 years Conseiller Gastronomique Margarete Vetter made the Wild Rose famous by transforming it into a bastion of gastronomy in Hungary. The current owners, Maître Restaurateur Gábor Földvári and his son Dániel, continue the traditions, including the villa’s atmospheric interior, by offering a wide variety of gastronomic options.

The brilliant menu created by Executive Chef Lázár Kovács-Siklósi evoked a carnival atmosphere. He is a famous personality in Hungary: star television presenter; food stylist; gastronomic consultant; formerly Executive Chef at the Embassy of Hungary in Washington DC; recipe books author; … and Conseiller Culinaire for the Chaîne! He has certainly helped the establishment of the Confrérie in Hungary.

On arrival, Chef Lázár welcomed us like family members. The evening began with spectacular carnival fireworks, cold winter ice cream and hot mulled wine.

Exciting contrasts of opposites in perfect harmony exemplified the sumptuous eight-course menu created by Chef Lázár and his team, joined by Rôtisseur Alexandra Pereszlényi and 2017 winner of the Bailliage’s National Final of the Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition.

Colourful, richly flavoured, carefully-selected dishes attractively served in custom-designed tableware arrived at the tables like a joyful carnival parade. They included: 

- cold hors d’oeuvres in three guises with a lucky mask
- a giant dumpling in a “carnival” soup
- hot hors d’oeuvre
- perfect veal tenderloin colourfully en croute
- fantastic cheese variations
- gigantic doughnut presentation preserving carnival traditions.

The wines selected for this memorable menu both respected tradition and were boldly innovative.

Competitions evoke a carnival atmosphere thus there was an exciting beauty contest for men’s neckties and ladies’ shoes.

A friendly evening in festive mood is a gift, but further surprises awaited us. Concluding a great evening were a Hungarian pálinka (brandy) presentation by Chevalier Tamas Kokány and specially-designed gâteaux by cake designer Maître Rôtisseur Ráchel Raj.

We wish all Chaîne Members a pleasant carnival season. Vive la Chaîne!

Iván Novák
Bailli Délégué